The Pepe family has been making wine from grapes on their estate around the »Casa Pepe« since around 1889. Emidio Pepe, born in 1932, had already worked alongside his father and grandfather for several years when he finally founded the winery under his own name in 1964. Before that, the viticulture of the agricultural mixed operation had only been a small part of the income sources.

At a time when especially the local white wines were consumed as young as possible and a steady cash flow was essential for the modest farmers of the region, Emidio was one of the first to firmly believe in the incredible aging potential of the grape varieties Trebbiano and Montepulciano d'Abruzzo. The thoughtful, quiet Emidio Pepe is definitely not a man of loud words, but he is a man of clear determination, and his approach is characterized by a clear focus. He has always had a very precise idea of what he wanted to achieve, and at the same time, he works tirelessly on implementing his plans. Over the last more than 60 harvests, Emidio has also learned a lot. Year after year, he observes the signs of nature with a sensitivity that few can match. And he still enjoys being present when the family and the team work in the vineyards and in the cellar. With his wines, Emidio Pepe catapulted the Abruzzo into the consciousness of the wine world.

The wines destined for export come from very old pergola systems that have been farmed according to the principles of biodynamics from the very beginning.

Deep down, the family members still refer to themselves as farmers. And while everything may change over time, the actual work on the winery has remained the same for decades, even centuries. The guarantee for the consistency of Emidio Pepe wines is the preservation of tradition. Today, the family business is run by Emidio's daughter Daniela and his granddaughter Sofia. While Daniela takes care of the administrative part of the winery, Sofia has enjoyed being by Emidio's side in the vineyard and cellar since childhood. She watched him attentively and learned from him as he gradually passed on both his deep knowledge and the management of all practical areas to her. Daniela's daughter Chiara is responsible for the export markets, and her sister Elisa mainly takes care of the overnight guests and the winery's restaurant.

The vines grown in the pergola system – that is, overhead, a form of vine training that is still widespread outside of Abruzzo in South Tyrol – are cultivated in harmony with nature. As has been done in the region for centuries, Emidio Pepe still grows vegetables and grains between and under the vines today. This »storybook« vegetable is then transformed into an enticing, traditionally cooked menu for the overnight guests of the small family-owned hotel. The members of the Pepe family have seen themselves as conscientious guardians of the terroir for generations. Chemicals play no role in either cultivation or winemaking; instead, careful handwork and respectful work according to old traditions are relied upon to preserve the authentic expression of the wines.

Overall, the Abruzzo region appears more rural, modest, as well as more original and wild than the more »refined«, chic Tuscany. Emidio Pepe's home in the village of Torano Nuovo is situated amidst unspoiled nature, which is in harmony with its own rhythms. The climate provides the perfect balance for growing grapes, with the mild, salty influence of the nearby sea and the cold currents of the imposing Gran Sasso mountain range, which attracts climbers and hikers. This allows the grapes to ripen slowly and evenly, leading to the outstanding development of aromas as well as an ideal balance of sugar and acidity. The clay and limestone soil allows the vines to spread their roots several meters deep. All these factors – the location of the vineyards with plenty of sunlight, the large temperature differences between day and night, and the constant wind that prevents the development of vine diseases – make Torano Nuovo a place with an inspiring wine tradition.

The Wealth of Unique Clones

The unique fingerprint of Emidio Pepe wines is closely linked to the genetic diversity of the vines in the vineyards, some of which are around 100 years old. Emidio Pepe planted his first vineyards using a method called »Sélection Massale«, which is rarely practiced today. Initially, the rootstocks were planted. Once their root system was strong enough, they were personally grafted by Emidio with noble cuttings from the best vines he could find on an old plot with particularly high-quality grapevines. This unique genetic wealth of Trebbiano and Montepulciano clones, which differ significantly from the majority of the region's vines that are often bred for mass production, forms the basis of the distinctive character of all Emidio Pepe wines. Today, the best of these vines serve as »parents« for all newly planted stocks. Emidio optimized the cultivation of the vines over the decades and perfectly coordinated the nutrient supply of the plants, soil cultivation, vine pruning, and vegetation.

After the hand harvest with strict selection, all Emidio Pepe wines are fermented using wild yeasts from the vineyards and the cellar. Enzymes and other substances that are supposed to promote the development of aromas are, of course, not used. Only natural products such as copper, sulfur, and biodynamic preparations are employed here. The two white grape varieties Trebbiano and Pecorino are crushed in large wooden vats by foot, 350 kg at a time, for 40–45 minutes. This gently releases the aromas and flavor compounds from the skins without damaging the stems, which could release bitter nuances. The grapes of the red Montepulciano d’Abruzzo are hand destemmed! The berries remain almost intact, and the semi-carbonic fermentation begins inside the grapes. This is followed by fermentation in small, flavor-neutral, and temperature-controlled concrete tanks, which Emidio began using in 1964 – their longevity fits perfectly with the fundamental principles of winemaking!

Decanting the Red Wines

In the cellar of the winery, over 300,000 bottles once waited for the perfect moment of their release. Since the wines are bottled without any filtration (as this also removes flavor!), some sediment forms during aging in the bottle, settling at the bottom. Therefore, every bottle older than 20 years is hand corked and decanted before sale to remove the sediment and check the quality of each individual bottle. An absolutely crazy effort! During this process, some liquid is lost, which is then quickly replaced with wine from a second bottle of the same vintage before the bottle is recorked. It is important to know that the year of decanting is printed on the cork, not the actual vintage year. Thus, every customer knows when this meticulous quality improvement process took place. The Trebbiano and Pecorino from Emidio Pepe are among the best wines in the country, alongside the unique, long-aged red wines for good reason. The dedication with which the Pepe family treats their wines is absolutely unique!