Roagna: Derthona Montemarzino 2022

100% Timorasso.

Luca Roagna came to this vineyard somewhat unintentionally. His cousin, owner of a small winery and these vineyards, passed away unexpectedly due to an accident.

The family asked him to continue vinifying these ancient vines, and so he came into possession of this vineyard with Timorasso. Fortunately, Luca is very good friends with the (re)discoverer of this grape variety, Walter Massa. With his help, he has been producing a borderline brilliant Timorasso from old vines for years, which probably even surpasses the best wines of his mentor. In its pronounced phenolic character, this wine shows so much power and finesse after extended maceration. The Timorasso shifts from quince to melon, lemongrass, orange. Lots of yellow fruit.

If you didn’t know, you would never place this in Piedmont, but probably think it a great wine from the Loire.

Only Timorasso, when expressed in this extreme way as with Massa and Roagna, is world-class among the white wines of Piedmont’s indigenous grape varieties. Of course, there are great Chardonnays here, but that is the most international of all grape varieties.

As lovely as a Gavi, Arneis, or similar can be, nothing indigenous matches the class of Timorasso. This is truly outstanding and can even age for decades. Already tasted from Walter Massa. Exciting!