The one with the monkeys on the label.
At least the marketing part works and is memorable, but here it also holds true in the bottle.
Refreshing acidity and fine-grained tannin structure still make the opulent richness seem incredibly elegant. The oak aging completely fades into the background, and you simply feel like enjoying this fine drop immediately.
Nevertheless, it is worth being patient, as with most very good wines, because experience shows that the product of the almost 100-year-old Carignan vines needs a few years of aging to fully reveal itself.